Sunday, 12 October 2014

Construction


The top finished, sanded and drying from the clear coated polyurethane matte finish.



Hanging the frame in the paint room, this is after one decent primer coat, 2 coloured coats and 3 clear coats.



Full shot of the jig ready to be tacked and welded.



The last jig. It was difficult to find a way to keep the bottom legs parallel, the top legs sitting up perfectly vertical and then the cross bar level and at the right height. Took a few hours just to set this thing up correctly, mostly because the legs meet at an 85 degree angle as apposed to a 90 degree right angle.



The Varnish/clear matte finish for the top.



I went through a lengthy process of figuring out the angles to cut my steel as i wasn't convinced on what people were telling me to cut it to get the 85 degree angle. My doubts paid off when i found out the angles were taken from the wrong axis and had to be cut at 48 degrees, not 42. I made a jig so that i can keep the connections the same angles and get a perfectly clean and precise finish.



Practise for scolloping using an angle grinder



American Ash Piece that i fell in love with.

Final Technical Drawings- 2nd Rendition






Friday, 3 October 2014

Renders





Final Decisions


I am using angle iron to support the wood top as flat bar will flex and make the table bouncy, square tube is to bulky and pipe has little contact area with the surface. Angle iron cancels out any flexing in either direction and is the most suitable extrusion for my supports.

Also i will drill 3 counter-sunk holes in each section of angle iron and screw in self tapping screws to attach the top to the metal legs. 


I have decided to leave the legs uncapped despite a few ideas from my tutors and it will allow space for future modification, where i can run a chord/plug through the legs to the top whilst being completely hidden. I have also decided to have the pipe that separates the two legs to be slightly higher than ground level on the back legs. This is because this is a reasonably central point and will be structurally the strongest connection location available and it also allows for a foot rest for the user.

Fixed model and colour exploration



Beige. 

Dark Brown

Blue

Dark Blue/Purple


Brown

Graphite/Gunmetal


Navy

Red

Grey

White

Monday, 15 September 2014

Appropriate materials model


The finished board after put through the thicknesser and router. I didn't have the steel to do the legs so made a mockup of one of the joints. The teachers advised that the scales could be wrong and i agree and so will adapt the dimensions to get the proportions correct.


I didn't realise but found out from a class mate that you have to use sash clamps to clamp/laminate boards for a table and glue a lot more than i did. My previous attempt was weak, bowed and flimsy. Also, i needed to arrange the end grains alternately in order to stop future bowing.





For the full scale appropriate materials model, i went out and found some pine and rimu from an old hoarder to make the table top. After a lengthy discussion with the workshop lads, i decided to use biscuits and had a great time doing it. After glueing, i clamped my work up against another bit of wood to keep the board perfectly flat while drying.





Thursday, 11 September 2014

Construction Plan

 Construction 

TABLE

1- Cut American Ash into pieces using the table-saw.
2- Cut slots for biscuits using biscuit cutter.
3- Apply biscuits to wood and adhere PVA wood glue onto edges and biscuits.
4- Clamp together using sash clamps, leaving 24 hours to dry.
5- Even surface of board using the thicknesser.
6- Cut board to correct dimensions. 
7- Sand top using 120 and 240 grit sandpaper, by hand and with palm-sander.
8- Hand sand edges to round off sharp corners.  
9- Apply two coats of clear coat matte polyurethane to finish, leaving 16 hours between coats.
10- Screw board to steel frame legs.


LEGS

1- Cut Galvanised pipe and angle iron into correct dimensions and angles using the metal drop-saw.
2- Make 2-3 Jigs to ensure the placement of pipe is absolutely correct when welding, using staples from the staple gun and MDF, cutting with a band-saw.
3- Sandblast all metal components and pieces using the sandblaster. 
4- Drill and countersink holes into angle iron using metal Drill Press and appropriate drill bits.
5- Use angle grinder, with grinding and cutting disks, to shape angle iron and create semi circle cuts at the top of the steel (this allows the rods to pass through the tube without hitting steel).
6- Angle grind two slot cuts into sides of pipe for the angle iron support.
7- Tig weld the two feet to the two 85 degree angled legs.     (First setting up and clamping into jig)
8- Mig weld angle iron to the two vertical legs.                       (First setting up and clamping into jig)                           
9- Mig weld cross bar to attach the two legs together. Clean all heat marks with wire brush                               (First setting up and clamping into jig)
10- Angle grind back unnecessary and ugly welds and/or bog mistakes.
11- Suspend frame in paint booth and apply primer coat. 
12- Sand if necessary and prime again.
13- Paint final colour with spray gun, applying at least two coats.
14- Finish with multiple coats of clear coat.
15- ASSEMBLE COMPONENTS.





Costs, Volume and Travel Time

-American Ash- 3000mm, 25mm, 220mm 
          $68.62 incl GST- City Timbers
20 minutes return travel time
         
-Glavenised Steel Pipe- 42mm diameter, 3mm wall thickness, 3x 2.2m 
          $60.00 incl GST+ shipping- MKing Industries
Travel provided

-PVA Glue- 600ml 
          $10.99- Bunnings Warehouse
10 Minutes Walking time

-Steel Angle Iron- 1500mm length go 3mm thick, 25mmx25mm
          $7.20- Metal Works Wellington
8 minutes walking time

-Wooden Biscuits- 9x20mm biscuits
          $1.80- Massey 3D Workshop
0 travel time

-Sikkens Mat Plus (matte clear coat)- 1 Litre 
          $59.00- Bunnings Warehouse 
10 minutes walking time

-Primer and clear coat- 2x standard spray can  
          $37.48- Repco Autoparts, Wellington
6 minutes Walking time

-Chicago Grey Paint- 2x 55ml Test pots
          $4.60- Resene Paints, Wellington
5 minutes walking time

-Paint Brushes- 3 different sizes 
          $3.70- Bunnings Warehouse
10 minutes Walking time